Taste the truth

It came to be known in culinary circles as “Shrimp Gate.” But what started as a minor controversy in Charleston helped bring statewide changes to how local shrimp would be sold in restaurants throughout South Carolina.

In May 2025, a firm called SeaD Consulting quietly conducted tests on shrimp from 44 restaurants around Charleston, focusing on those that advertised their shrimp as locally caught.

Commissioned on behalf of the Southern Shrimp Alliance, the RIGHTTest (Rapid ID Genetic High-Accuracy Test) was able to determine whether the shrimp being sold at each restaurant were domestic or imported from overseas.

The results were alarming. Of the 44 restaurants, just four were found to be serving genuine domestic wild-caught shrimp. The rest were serving foreign imports, raised with little to no regulation in questionable conditions.

“South Carolina’s shrimpers are being undercut by foreign imports while consumers have no idea what they’re buying or eating,” said U.S. Rep. Nancy Mace. “Our shrimpers deserve a level playing field.”

To help create that level playing field, state Reps. Bill Herbkersman, Jeff Bradley and Shannon Erickson of Beaufort County, along with Bill Hixon of Aiken County, introduced the Truth in Shrimp Labeling Act on March 27, 2025. Gov. Henry McMaster signed the measure into law in June 2026.

One of the strongest seafood transparency laws in the country, it requires restaurants and other food service establishments, including cafeterias, food trucks and similar businesses, to disclose when they serve imported shrimp, either through a sign at the entrance or a disclaimer on the menu.

For diners, this means greater peace of mind that the shrimp they’re about to enjoy is as fresh, local and authentic as the restaurant claims. But they should probably know that this peace of mind may come at a cost. There’s a reason many restaurants choose imported shrimp, and it comes down to overhead.

Andrew Carmines, owner of Hudson’s Seafood House on the Docks, has been serving local shrimp since he took over from his parents, Brian and Gloria, and the restaurant’s history goes back even further. Perched on the edge of a working shrimp dock, it only makes sense that the restaurant would take advantage of the fresh catch coming in through the back door. But that doesn’t mean it’s any cheaper.

“I have 3-4 people who come in just to peel and devein the shrimp when they come in. I’m paying whatever per pound for the shrimp itself, but when you add on the 16 hours of labor it adds significant costs,” he said. “But I’m going to walk around the restaurant asking people how their food is if we’re not doing it right.”

He’s able to make it work, but he will be the first to tell you that the strain on an average restaurant might force prices even higher.

“It’s happening at a tough time for a lot of restaurants; margins are thinner than ever,” Carmines said. “It’s hard to navigate that right now because everything’s so expensive. But in my experience, people will pay more for quality. And I think it will be a boon for the shrimping industry.”

With the law taking effect Oct. 28, diners can see where their shrimp are coming from, and restaurants that are doing it right have one more way to show it.

“This law demonstrates that passing off imported farm-raised shrimp as American-caught will not be tolerated,” said Blake Price, executive director of the Southern Shrimp Alliance. “Consumers want the fresh taste and crisp bite unique to the shrimp species that live off the U.S. coast. This law gives South Carolina’s commercial shrimping fleet — multigenerational, working-waterfront businesses that depend on customers’ trust in what’s on the menu — a foothold to build on.”

A 20-year Bluffton resident, Barry is a freelance writer and editor as well as host of B-Town Trivia. Follow him on Instagram @btownbarry and @btowntrivia.