History, Wildlife and Tsavo
Day 19 -
As usual the day began early, departure at 6 am. Greetings in Swahili—“Habari yako?” answered with “Nzuri sana”—set the tone for a day steeped in history, wildlife, and cultural lessons. We learned about the migration of the Maasai from Sudan, identifying them as Nilotic people from the Nile River. Known for their fierce independence, the Maasai once resisted British colonial expansion. When the British built the railway from Mombasa, they relied first on donkeys and camels, later horses, and imported Indian laborers to construct the line. The railway became infamous for the “Maneaters of Tsavo,” lions that attacked workers—a story immortalized in film.
The Maasai protested the railway, which they called the “black snake,” and later repurposed its rails into spearheads. Colonial powers introduced anthrax and cholera, devastating cattle and communities. Trachoma, a fly-borne disease causing blindness, was treated by medicine men through a ritual burning making black spots beneath children’s eyes. Oral histories also recalled leaders deceived into surrendering land with thumbprint signatures, shaping Nairobi and northern Kenya’s colonial legacy.
The morning drive revealed hyenas, marabou storks, klipspringer antelopes, and a zebra carcass with a hyena nearby. Birdlife included yellow-necked spurfowl, Egyptian geese, hornbills, and the butler eagle. Gorgeous Ipomea morning glories dotted the landscape.
Our guide, Sande, explained the challenges elephants face: unable to regulate heat due to internal testicles, they risk death from heatstroke. By contrast, squirrels thrive with external adaptations. Giraffes, he noted, are considerate feeders, leaving bird nests intact when dining on acacia leaves.
Stories flowed throughout the day. Witch doctors, Sande said, could curse unfaithful spouses or thieves, causing them to become “stuck” in compromising positions.
A cautionary tale warned of acacia thorns hidden in elephant dung, capable of puncturing tires.
Another story described the origin of the popular brand, Tusker beer. George Hurst who was killed by an elephant in 1923 gave the brew its name when his brother, Charles named their new lager “Tusker.”
Later in the afternoon, we visited Mzima Springs in Tsavo West National Park. Fig trees, toothbrush trees, and date palms shaded the area, while vervet and Sykes monkeys, crocodiles, hippos, hyraxes, elephants, rhinos, buffalo, zebras, lions, and waterbucks gathered at the spring—their lifeline in the dry season. Nearby, the Chyulu Hills, formed of volcanic ash and lava, act as a natural water filter. From here, 304,000 liters per minute are pumped 150 miles to Mombasa.
The evening brought personal moments. Ciku, shared her origins as a member of the Bantu tribe and we enjoyed meeting her 7-year-old son JJ and looking at her family photos.
By 10:30, it was time to retire, reflecting on a day that blended Kenya’s colonial past, natural wonders, and enduring traditions.
Tamela is a proofreader and book editor; she hosts paint parties for adults, art and drama camp for kids, and is the art teacher at May River Montessori. www.tamelamaxim.com www.artposseproductions.com
